Jewelry has long been more than decoration. For centuries, people have used it to hide secrets, send messages (that went beyond just love letters), and express forbidden love. Some of the most fascinating examples in history involve powerful figures and the mysteries hidden in their jewels. Whether through engravings, hidden compartments, or symbolic designs, these pieces allowed wearers to express feelings or share information without drawing attention.
Acrostic Jewelry for Joséphine de Beauharnais
Napoleon Bonaparte’s marriage to Joséphine de Beauharnais was controversial due to her previous marriage, her age, and her perceived reputation in Parisian society. And while accounts of jewelry from before their wedding is sparce, Napoleon Bonaparte was no stranger to using jewelry as a symbolic statement. He gifted her with an incredibly famous “toi et moi” ring that used two stones to represent their pairing. He also used acrostic jewelry to communicate his emotions in a way that was as subtle as it was luxurious and newly trendy.
Acrostic pieces are when the first letter of gemstones spell out words like love or regard or the initials of loved ones, and it was popularized in France during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Historians suggest he commissioned several acrostic pieces during his tumultuous marriage, and so did Beauharanis.1 The pieces were usually crafted by renowned Parisian jewelers and paired with high-quality gemstones, like the bracelets with the initials of her children pictured above.
Lover’s Eye Locket for Maria Fitzherbert
In the late 18th century, the Prince of Wales, later King George IV, initiated a clandestine relationship with Maria Fitzherbert, a twice-widowed Catholic. Due to societal and religious constraints, their union was deemed unacceptable (surprise, surprise). To maintain discretion, the Prince commissioned a miniature portrait of himself and set it into a now-famous locket, which he presented to Fitzherbert as a token of his affection.
This intimate gesture allowed them to keep their connection private while still carrying a personal memento. Eventually, the couple wed, and Maria had a miniature portrait of herself commissioned for her partner. While this couple put their whole face inside the locket, future couples would use just their eye, which became known as “lover’s eye” jewelry, the fashionable way for Georgian-era individuals to discreetly display their romantic attachments.2
Hidden Inscription for Wallis Simpson
Few relationships in modern history have captivated the public quite like the romance between King Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson. Their love defied the expectations of the British monarchy, leading Edward to abdicate the throne in 1936.3 Among the many jewels exchanged during their storied affair, a ruby and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels stands out.
This seemingly straightforward designer piece was commissioned in Edward’s favored style, featuring deep rubies framed by diamonds. But it gets juicy when you look at the hidden inscription. The clasp was engraved in Edward’s handwriting, saying, “Hold Tight 27-III-36.” Scholars believe Hold Tight was a private phrase between the couple, symbolizing their resolve to stay united despite overwhelming public scrutiny and pressure. More likely, the phrase was simply a plea for her patience as he prepared to give up his crown to be with the woman he loved.4
Sources
- DeLorme, Eleanor P. Joséphine and the Arts of the Empire. JP Getty Museum, 2005. ↩︎
- Secret Messages in Jewelry – the Lover’s Eye. GIA, 21 May 2015 ↩︎
- Sebba, Anne. That Woman: The Life of Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor. St. Martin’s Press, 2012. ↩︎
- The Duchess of Windsor: a story of passion. Van Cleef & Arpels, 2024. ↩︎
